Sunday, August 24, 2008

Cap't Elmers -in Orleans, MA

Cap't Elmers, on Old Colony Way in Orleans, MA has been serving what I consider the best lobster roll on Cape Cod for 32 years. Elmer's consistently delivers a classic Cape Cod lobster roll. (I grew up eating this particular lobster roll, which may partially explain my fondness for it.) When I was a teenager they were $5.99 - imagine that!

A few worlds on the lobster roll -

It MUST be on a New England style hot dog roll, ideally split and buttered, and toasted to a golden brown on the grill. A hamburger bun is NOT ok, nor is (gasp) a bulkie roll, a grotesque perversion of the New England classic common to expat New Yorkers. (The Bulkie is way too chewy, and overpowers the lobster meat with its floury-ness.)

All that goes into the lobster roll is lobster meat and a leaf or two of lettuce, ideally Boston lettuce, but butter lettuce will do in a pinch. Romaine is icky in this context, and Mesclun way too gourmet, and thus liable to incite ridicule. A generous gob of Mayo is traditional (and yummy) but may be omitted by the phobic. It is usually served in a white cardboard sleeve, and may be accompanied by fries, onion rings or chips.

If the lobster has been too salad-ized with the addition of celery or God forbid scallions the proprietor should be spanked. When I make them at home I will veer from tradition just slightly by adding a bit of fresh tarragon.

Elmers meets all these criteria admirably. I am sure other things there are excellent, but I have to confess that other than the great clam chowder - in 32 years I've never had anything but a lobster roll at Elmers.

Cap't Elmers
18 Old Colony Way
Orleans, MA 02653

(508) 255-3350