Tuesday, October 2, 2007

Eckl's Beef on Weck, Orchard Park, NY

While driving cross country I have resolved to not eat at any chain restaurants, no fast food, and no mass market commercial cooking. Instead I will seek out more "old school" road food.

The first night of my trans-continental oddessy, in Buffalo, NY I am confronted with an embarrassment of riches. A choice between the Anchor Bar - (the original home of the eponymous Buffalo Wings) or Eckl's Beef on Weck.

I briefly entertain the idea of having buffalo wings for breakfast, so as to be able to try both, but Buffalo Wings are something of a nightmare to eat with braces, so off to Beef on Weck it is. Besides "Eckl's Beef on Weck" is a throughly enjoyable phrase to say aloud, so I am compelled to say it several times on the way to the restaurant.

The somewhat appalling photo is Eckl's Beef on Weck sammich - tragically underlit for the cellphone camera. It was much more attractive that it looks in this photo...

Eckl's is an unassuming white building in a decidedly residential neighborhood. A sign outside simply declares "Eckl's." In these parts no further explanation is necessary. A small brass plaque on the side of the building announces: "House Of Eckl - established 1934." Inside it is cozy and dark in a paneled suburban rumpus room sort of way. At one side of the dining room is the stainless sandwich assembly and slicing area.

A weck (Kummelweck actually) is a salted roll often described as pretzel bread, but it's much softer than that would lead you to imagine. It is also seeded with ground caraway seeds.

I order my roast beef sandwich medium rare, and it arrives a few minutes later. It is closer to what I would describe as raw. I am one of those who finds beef mildly distressing at the best of times, so this presents a minor challenge*, but my trepidation fades on the first bite. It is spectacular - the beef literally melts in your mouth, and the salt and caraway provide the perfect foil for the extremely tender beef. I recommend eating the sandwich upside down, as the salt crystals and caraway seeds have a more exciting effect when placed tongue down...

Eckl's Beef on Weck -
4936 Ellicott Rd
Orchard Park, NY 14127

* I find it exceedingly odd when people won't eat things they don't like. I believe in trying things several times, and then once more just to be sure.... When something I don't particularly like is presented to me, I generally eat it anyway, in the interests of both politeness and anthropology.



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